meknes and mountain air

it's the 3rd of february, and i can't believe that i have been here in morocco for a little over two weeks. the sheer difference of so many aspects of my life here draws me into that all-too-common feeling of "i've always been here." i'm beginning to find myself in the rhythm of morccan life here on campus: the two-kiss greeting, which by the way, i apologize in advance for when i return because it's already become habit after only two weeks!, the food, the language - words are slowly starting to creep into my vocabulary.

this weekend i went to meknes with tony, eva, jason, and sanae. we headed there on friday, early in the afternoon, checked into a budget hotel in the ville nouvelle, and then headed off to the medina to get lost in the old market and little alleyways. we came upon the place el-hadim as the sun was beginning to dip behind the old adobe walls turning everything various shades of rose and dusty gold. the little stands selling freshly sqeezed juice and roasted-meat sandwiches were busy as families turned out in droves to stoll up and down the avenues, make some last minute purchases, and watch their kids kick footballs around in the square.

we sat for a while with a cup of tea soaking up the last rays of sun, and i realized how absolutely fortunate i am to be in such a place - both physically, socially, economically, whatever - where i am able to have the experiences that i'm having. especially as i saw all of the people (the ones who weren't leisurely strolling) rushing from place to place. i wondered how hard they must have to work in order to just make it from day to day. it's probably the most uncomfortable part of being a "tourist" - essentially taking leisure at someone else's expense, even if you compensate them with money. it's just...weird.

anyway, we toured around for a bit, and then headed back to the ville nouvelle where we ended up camping out, so to speak, at a really lovely little restaurant called "le pub" where we sampled a local wine (meknes is the wine-producing capital of morocco, by the way). it was really lovely, and altogether just a really enjoyable evening: sitting, talking, accompanied by friends, laughing, and just enjoying life in general. particularly the dutch couple that joined us halfway through the evening, and the fact that around 11 pm we suddenly found ourselves surrounded by women that, by all likelihood, were hookers. well, that part was actually a bit depressing - but definitely a side i haven't seen much of in ifrane, although i'm told it exists here, too.

the next morning we got a slow and later start, stopping off at a cafe for a croissant washed down by thick espresso - delightful. then it was back to the medina where we repeatedly set off with the best intentions of making it someplace, repeatedly got lost, and repeatedly enjoyed it. each attempt interspersed with either a short sit and cup of tea in the plaza, a bite to eat, or a trip over to the mausoleum of moulay ismail - a moroccan historical figure who was the one that made meknes the imperial city it is today.

after a little bit we headed back, quite satisfied with our conquest of that little ancient town. one thing, though, is that it was so remarkable the difference of being down in the valley, breathing in the smog and dust which clogged the air and then getting out of the grand taxi back in ifrane. i could finally take a good, deep breath - and it felt so good. i definitely feel blessed, in a way then, to be studying here as opposed to in casa or rabat, despite ifrane being such a small town.

anyways, just random notes from the journey. i'm off in a bit to church over at the chaplain's home, and then tomorrow homework and reading and getting ready for the week. next weekend...who knows?!